not absolutely understood, that you wished tell..
I have seen designs very similar to this in past issues of MR so it should'nt be to hard to find something that you can copy and or modify to suit your needs. There is a classic John Armstrong design called the Murphy Bed and Credenza, which consists of a 4xH H being about 3 inches short of ceiling height that folds up into a case mounted against the wall. The adjacent bookcase-looking unit has a yard under a sloped top that folds up to provide a bit of backdrop.
The sloped top is to discourage people from putting objects on the closed lid when the layout isn't in use. The advantage of having a portion of the layout that remains level is that rolling stock can be left on the rails rather than having to be removed before turning the layout on edge.
It's also possible to raise a layout, level, up against the ceiling - assuming that he ceiling height is sufficient. If this technique is used, it's a good idea to have the layout stand on legs when it's in operation. If it's simply swinging from the hoist cables a simple hip bump will translate into a scale megathrust earthquake. At least you won't have a tsunami along with it I just recently reread that article and would like to add that it included one of Armstrong's clever designs for a specially fabricated hinge that would allow the layout folding section to drop down so that a much greater length could be hinged away from the wall.
As mentioned by the previous poster it sounds like just what you are after. Check out our. Login or Register. Latest Headlines. Popular Topics. Statistics for train down Look-up Popularity. Get Word of the Day daily email! Test Your Vocabulary. Need even more definitions? The awkward case of 'his or her'.
Word Games Which Came First? Take the quiz Spell It Can you spell these 10 commonly misspelled words? Take the quiz Bee Cubed Listen to the words and spell through all three levels. Play the game. I'm in favour of using nails.
I am always fine tuning the track plan and using the nails makes it pretty easy to make adjustments. I might even get around to ballasting one of these days - most of the track has been in place for about four years - but I keep changing things. Chris from Oz. Member since October From: oregon posts. Posted by oleirish on Friday, May 27, AM. I use med set CA ,for my track A little drop where the holes are in the ties. And I use my staple gun for the road bed.
If you want to move or re-move a peace of track a putty knife with the edge sharpned works just fine. Member since October From: OH 17, posts. On my layout extension I used Woodland Scenics foam road bed.. I am impress with the results. I glued my track in place by using white glue.. The ballast went down just as easy. Larry Conductor. Summerset Ry. Latex caulk for me. I started using track nails in the hidden staging area, then tried staples it is hidden, afterall , then caulk.
I can lay a lot more track in a given amount of time with caulk, the stuff comes up if need be and it holds everything in place. Roadbed in the staging area is cork held down with either Elmer's white glue or Liquid Nails. I'm now using WS foam and either Liquid Nails or caulk to put it down. I have no visions of pulling up and reusing the roadbed when the time comes to disassemble the layout, so that was not a consideration.
Member since February posts. Posted by nobullchitbids on Friday, May 27, PM. This issue came up in another forum, where we were discussing how to minimize noise so as not to compete with minature sound systems.
The best physics was that whatever is the track including e. Tru-Scale "roadbed" should be "glued" with a sound-absorbent "glue" like caulk.
If nails are used, what can happen is that train noise will be transferred through the nails into the plywood, creating a sounding board. I like both methods: Use the nails to hold the track in place till the caulk dries. Also: you can get laytex caulks that are almost an earth color; use these and before they dry, spread your ballast and gently press it into the caulk.
I'm an N scaler, and I learner a long time ago to use a styrofoam base under my layout so I can use stick pins to hold my track down, then just paint the heads of the pins flat black.
I'm going to use AMI Instant roadbed. No glue or nails neccessary the track comes stick you just press it into place. The only drawback is it costs a little more. Users Online. Search the Community. Model Railroader Newsletter See all. Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!
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WilmJunc Member since April posts. Anonymous Member since April , posts. Posted by grandeman on Thursday, May 26, AM I've used both methods and prefer the glue to tacks. Leon Silverman Member since July posts. Posted by retsignalmtr on Thursday, May 26, AM when i put down track on cork over plywood i use atlas track nails driven just below the tops of the rails until i add ballast then i pull the nails as the ballast will hold the track secure.
Enjoy Paul If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way. Posted by twhite on Thursday, May 26, AM I actually use both methods--since I'm using WS roadbed, just nailing down the track isn't an option. Tom [:D] Tom View my layout photos! Posted by cwclark on Thursday, May 26, AM I use the Atlas rail spikes and use a punch to drive the nails so that i don't mis-align the nail or hit the rail with the hammer Chuck Reply. Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, May 26, AM The advantage of nails is that it'll allow you to easily pull up and re-aling the track over time.
Mark in Utah Reply Edit. Posted by wjstix on Thursday, May 26, AM I use Walthers code 83 flextrack and turnoutsso I use their spikes same kind used for handlaying track , I also have some areas using Atlas code 83 and there I use Atlas track nails, but I also use some spikes here and there to smooth out the curves.Train down definition is - to reduce one's weight by exercise and diet.
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